In the Netherlands I have bought the ‘led light drawing pad A4 usb’ from VistaPlan Online, and it’s the same Huion pad that Abe uses. It cost me a round 40 euros which is very manageable to be honest.
The light is even and strong. Yes I see flickering through my DSLR EVF but that is with most light sources (Which all flicker to some degree :P).
I’ve used it quite a while to ‘scan film’ through my APS-C DSLR (with an older Minolta 50mm f2.8 Macro). The raw files I shoot go through Rawtherapee of DCRAW to export them without any alterations as linear unaltered output. From there it’s basically the same as any scan I do on my proper Filmscanner -> into photoshop and ColorPerfect plugin.
You’ve got to be a bit careful at the sides of the lightpad since you will see some light bleeding there, but it’s A4 and anything that’s 2cm away from the sides is even and nicely lit for not a lot of money.
I shoot at F8 with shutter speeds varying on the film, but anywhere from 0.5 second to 1.5 second, on a tripod which can be pointed straight down (to get a sort of copier setup). If I have the feeling the 12bit output of my DSLR is doing the scan ‘injustice’ I take two exposures and merge them with HDRMerge.
Getting the film as flat as possible without touching it is the tricky part. Press it down on the surface and you might get newton rings. With the lens at a few centimeters of distance, any millimeter the film curls up means it will not be properly in focus :S.
In the end I shoot with 24 megapixels APS-C at base ISO. I crop the surroundings and film borders, I end up with an image that is somewhere between 14 to 17 megapixels. If I compare the detail to the scans from my Reflecta Crystalscan 7200 which yields just over 3200 DPI or there abouts, I see no difference to one or the other (in other words, the film is the limiting factor probably :P). If you can see the individual grain-spots in the film it basically means you’re getting all the detail out of the film that you can.
I did a little test with my Galaxy S7 with a color negative on the same light source, shooting a 12 megapixels RAW (single exposure) as close as I could focus. I crop the surroundings and film borders and I end up with 6 to 8 megapixels of image data, which I inverted to a positive the same way I do with all my scans, and it yielded a very acceptable picture. Not as sharp / detailed of course, but colors pretty much the same, no lightstreaks or light-bleeding or things like that. You do have to make sure that your lens is clean, and maybe a macro-lens-adapter can help to get closer and get more actual detail out of it.
I’m looking forward to the moment I can put a strip of film on my light-pad, lay it flat, and quickly go over it with Filmlab to see the pictures and judge them properly and get little preview jpgs. If I then see a picture that is ‘worth it’ I expose it to my DSLR or put it in my proper film-scanner :). This can save me hours per roll that I scan ::P: